The goal of this routine is to target key shoulder stabilizer muscles that are commonly found weak in climbers.
As a warm up: perform 1-2 sets of 20 reps of each exercise before the climbing session.
For strength building: perform 3 sets of 10-15 reps of each exercise 2-3x per week.
Make sure that the resistance you choose allows you to complete FULL range of motion for the desired repetition range, with NO pain.
Shoulder External Rotation with Arm Out to the Side
Setup a band at about shoulder height. Bring your shoulder up and out to the side so it is at shoulder height, making sure to squeeze the shoulder blades back. With your elbow bent at 90 degrees rotate the band up until it is vertical, hold briefly, then lower. Keep your upper arm in the same position as you repeat rotation of the arm.
This position works the rotator cuff most at its shortened position. This can also be performed with free weight to work the muscle in its lengthened position.
Shoulder External Rotation with Arm in Front
Grab a free weight and start with your your elbow bent at 90 degrees and lift it straight out in front of you. Keep your upper arm in the same position as you rotate the weight down until the forearm is parallel with the ground. Hold briefly, rotate back up, and then repeat.
This position works the rotator cuff most at its lengthened position. This can also be performed with the bands to work the muscle in its shortened position.
Standing Shoulder T
Setup a band positioned at about shoulder height. Squeeze your shoulder blade back as you bring a straight arm back in line with your trunk. The end position should be at shoulder height, don’t let the arm drop. Hold briefly and then return to the start.
This exercise can also be performed with free weight in a bent over position.
Bent Over Shoulder Y
Get into a bent over position so that your trunk is close to parallel with the ground. Squeeze your shoulder blade back as you bring a straight arm over head at a “Y” angle. Hold briefly, lower, then repeat.
This can also be done in standing with the bands.